VO-BB - 20 YEARS OLD!

ccpetersen · Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 1:59 pm Post subject:

Bish, I like your panels. They're clean and bright. I'm considering something like that for a larger area that I want to convert for use in VO work. I'm currently using a converted closet, which works just fine, but for a number of reasons, isn't always as practical as I'd like. I've actually be considering building gobos that I can use to create the space I need on a moment's notice. Your picture reminded me of why.

Thanks for sharing that!

Deebs, your panels look fabby. I have a bunch of material from Hawai'i (good ol' Mrs. Kimura's) that would be perfect as covering for what I'm thinking of building.
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Jeffrey Kafer · Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:40 pm Post subject:

Does it matter the fabric, sonically?
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Pam · Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 7:55 pm Post subject:

I don't know if the fabric matters sonically but I didn't cover mine in burlap because this fabric is notorious for shedding fibers that I just didn't want around my space or my voice. My brother and I built my panels with OC 703 and 705 by building frames out of 1x4's (which I stained) and then I covered my panels with unbleached muslin and then stapled it to ceiling panels that were laid along the back of the OC. I pushed the panels through the frames so they left a gap in the back and the panels weren't flush to the wall.
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Now what did I come in here for?

Bish · Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 8:03 pm Post subject:

I can't remember where I read it, but I understand that if you can breathe through it easily, then it's OK and will be completely fit for purpose.
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Deirdre · Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 8:46 pm Post subject:

Lots of upholstery fabric is totally non-reflective in the world of sound.

Stay away from that brushed sateen stuff.
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georgethetech · Posted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:18 pm Post subject:

+1 for ATS pre-fab. Life's too short, and they can build them ANY size you like. Otherwise get the Roxul from them, if you can't find it locally. I found it to be reasonable, even with shipping factored in. Wrapping with fabric like DB did only works with the Roxul 60, the AFB is too flimsy and needs a frame. French cleats are great, and you can use it to your advantage to add 1-2" gap, then just add a couple spacers or rubber feet at the bottom.
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Jason Huggins · Posted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 8:44 pm Post subject:

I did the same thing that many others have talked about.

On the 2" vs. 4", they are very similar UNTIL you get into the lower frequencies. There is a definite difference in absorption below 250Hz.

I opted for the 2x4x4" 8# Rockwool (found them locally for about $13 a sheet)

Built a frame of 1x4s, put a piece of quarter round on the fron to give it a finished edge, then I put 1x2s on the back to create an airgap. They hung easily by putting a screw-in drywall anchor in the wall and screwing in a metal "L" screw. Then just set 'em up there. Here's my setup (bad pic). The corners are triangles stacked up with a frame velcro'd to the wall in front of the stack. The corner frames didn't get the quarter round treatment.

ballenberg · Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:36 am Post subject:

Hey there Jason--That's a fine looking setup you have--A few questions, if you will--Where in your home is this? Windows, doors, ventilation? Outside noise? What's the plan for that?

Are the panels against a wall, or is that some type of room divider? I see a computer screen at left--Is that on a type of rolling cart for standing reads?

All pretty cool---If I was sitting in that chair and turned around what would I see, and how does that affect the room sound ? I'm just doing some early thinking for a future setup and I like what I see here

Thanks!

Rob Ellis · M&M Joined: 01 Aug 2006 Posts: 2385 Location: Detroit

if you go DIY, keep in mind it will take longer than you think.

Wear gloves and ideally, some protective goggles. I even had a dust mask over my face. Wear old clothes too. I also recommend that when you're cutting the rockwool/fiberglass, try to do it in a well-ventilated area (outside if possible)
and keep the dogs and kids away.

It took at least a half day, in my experience. Worth it, though.

I went with 4-inch 705 in the corners, and 703 on the walls. Huge sound improvement over my acoustic foam.

Monk · Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 8:45 am Post subject:

I can vouch for the "It will take longer than you think"

I started my studio build in DECEMBER!!

granted, I have a full acting schedule and a pesky day job... but still!
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Jason Huggins · Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 6:55 pm Post subject:

georgethetech · Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:34 pm Post subject:

Awesome, Jason! If you had GreenGlue between those two layers of gypsum you may not have the remaining noise bleed into the booth you refer to from kids upstairs. Not too late you could always add another layer to the ceiling...

Swell job on the build, and great acoustic treatment! Non-parallel walls are overrated when it comes to a VO booth, IMHO. Enough of the right absorption takes care of any issues...
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If it sounds good, it is good.
George Whittam
GeorgeThe.Tech
424-226-8528
VOBS.TV Co-host
TheProAudioSuite.com Co-host
TriBooth.com Co-founder

ballenberg · Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 10:03 pm Post subject:

Thanks Jason--that's great detail, very helpful.

Question for you and George. I've heard the theory about using unequal amounts of drywall on opposite sides of the wall--So is the STC actually higher this way than if you were to have doubled up the drywall on the outside, and perhaps as George noted about the ceiling, used some GG.?

As far as that ceiling, I suspect that while GG would help, and certainly not hurt, direct impact noises on the floor above are some of the trickiest. In my current room, we (and by we, I mean me talking and pointing, and my builders working) beefed up the joist cavities with double drywall (can't remember if we used GG, but we should have), then loosely packed in pink insulation before adding our ceiling of double drywall with GG as sandwich spread (also unattached to joists) Still, if there's sharp impact on the floor above, I'll hear it. I've heard high heel footfalls from tjhe floor above at a top NY studio.

ballenberg · Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 10:08 pm Post subject:

Oh, and also--using that foundation wall rather than building it framed and away from the wall a bit: how does that affect sound reduction, George? And Jason, how did you handle that wall--paint it, add any kind of covering to it?

Thanks again

Scott Lyle · Posted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:43 am Post subject:

Hey y'all,

If you have a bare cinderblock or concrete basement wall, I'd suggest painting it with some kind of water "proofing" product like Drylock before topping it with anything else. The Drylock will absorb into the pores of the concrete and help resist any water that may get through in the future.

Also, be sure that your ceiling joists are strong enough to carry another layer of sheetrock (a 4x8 sheet weighs 54 lbs per wiki-answers). You wouldn't want to add that to say a 2x4 ceiling spanning 10' (which would be suspect to begin with).

Have fun!
scott