VO-BB - 20 YEARS OLD!

[BALKY]

Hi all!

Happy Holidays!

I am thinking of getting a vocal booth but do not know from which company is best to buy it.

Any suggestions?

Vocalbooth.com or whisperroom.com

Thanks so much!
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Pavel Kuklin
(Russian native vo artist)
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[georgethetech]

Just noticed this topic was left unanswered.
I've assembled both brands and found the Whisper Room to be a more solid unit, with better construction and a better door.
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George Whittam
GeorgeThe.Tech
424-226-8528
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[Frank F]

A third option, DIYroomacoustics.whatever or in layman's terms: instead of creating a bulky room inside of a room, learn about acoustics and work within your desired space to create the right "sound" with what you already own.

Thinking inside the outside of the box is a way to use small spaces effectively. Remember it is not what you keep in the room, it is more about what you keep out when acoustics for recording are considered.

Toodles

Frank F
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Be thankful for the bad things in life. They opened your eyes to the good things you weren't paying attention to before. email: thevoice@usa.com

[Gp]

I agree with Frank. It's what I am doing. Unless you live next to the airport or someplace where the noise is just so bad you can't record, the booth is too expensive in comparison to what you can make good bass traps for and tune your room where it needs to be. It is also much more comfortable to be in a big room where ventilation is not a concern.
I am in the process of working this out now. If you have questions I'd be happy to direct you to the right places.
that's my four ha’pennies

[Craig]

Greg and Frank,

I'd like to hear more about what you are doing.

I don't want to threadjack Balky, so maybe we could start another thread or discuss it offline.

I think my room sounds ok IF the kids are in bed or at school, nobody flushes the toity, the furnace and water heater stay off and no big trucks or low riders drive by.

In short, my recording time has to be late at night. The acoustics are ok with my homemade auralex covered doors (see reflexion filters) but it would be nice to have the convenience a whisper room would offer.

Craig
_________________
Craig Park
www.parkvoiceovers.com

[Gp]

Craig, take a look at places like realtraps.com lot's of good info there. There are a few other places, readytraps, gik acoustics etc. If you need more info feel free to call or write me and I will try to answer your questions. If I don't know I can probably find the answer for you.
That goes for everyone else that might be interested as well. I don't know it all, I am learning about all this myself but I am happy to share any info I have.
PEACE

[Dan-O]

I stumbled on this the other day: http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2125

It's probably the most in-depth DIY site for studio creation I have seen...and that page is just the FAQ of the forum.


/Shouldn't this thread be moved to Gear?

[Monk]

I haven't looked at the link yet but I'm going to add my .02 anyways

Sound travels via air. So first step is to remove all air. No wait. Remove the ability of air movement. So a good sealing door, and caulk all cracks around the window and outlets.

Second, sound will use flimsy material as a drum. So a hollow core door will vibrate and transmit the sound from one side to the other. as will glass and thin drywall.. so the second step is mass.

Third, is refection. ahhh life. Once you keep sounds from coming in, now you have to keep it from bouncing around. I follow a 50/50 rule, so that the room doesn't sound completely dead. I place sound absorbing material on the wall opposite of where I'm speaking too. So that my voice stops once it hits the wall, however I go to the next wall and imagine if the sound was a tennis ball and bounced off the first wall where it would hit and put another panel there. Corners are tough spots, a single roll of a carpet about 4' high in each corner really knocks down the bass boom from wandering around the room.
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[georgethetech]

[Rob Ellis]

I have a Whisper Room and recommend them highly, budget permitting.

I would probably look for a second-hand one if possible.

[Ed Gambill]

Now then, according the esteemed F. Alton Everest and his research into BBC methods the following dimensions would be essential to construct a Voice Over recording studio. Giving an 8ft ceiling height the room would be 12ft by 19ft.
His book Sound Studio Construction ON A BUDGET is most comprehensive. ISBN 0-07-021382-8

As I have the money and time, my nature is to save a buck and DIY.

The best plan for anyone without building experence, tools, and a understanding of acoustics is to buy ready made. The frustration that will follow an ill conceived and executed DIY booth makes the higher price for ready made a fair bargain.
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Esse quam videri "To be rather than to seem"
www.SaVoa.org No. 07000 Member AES

[Frank F]

Much of the advice given here is sound - excuse my pun.

Since I am by nature a McGuyver type; I like the challenge of DIY. With basic knowledge and a little "thinking outside the box", a nice room almost anywhere CAN be created and in many cases for very little money.

Basement rooms require some modifications of the ceiling depending upon needs. Loud environments outside, may also require modifications which may include de-coupling the walls with sound rails and additional layers of drywall and insulation.

Then there is the "tuning" factor. Once you have a room insulated from extraneous noise, it would be desirable to have the room free of reverberations, unwanted reflections and echoes, and... A DIY'er can simply make the room quiet and not sound like inside of a metal box for most purposes.

If the room you choose as a "studio" is basically free of extraneous noise, the "hand clap" test is a good way to find reflections inside of the room.

The use of "Block-out" material will help remove these audio reflection pests. Absorption panels, gobos, or "tube traps" will diminish abhorrent bass or broadband frequencies. Using corner traps and "clouds" will also clean up the acoustic design of your room without major additional expense.

Each of the above suggestions/ideas - combined; are much less costly than one used Whisper-Room and leave the room usable (space wise) for other pursuits.

One other comment on studio design and acoustics: The use of foam absorbers is frowned upon today. The reason for the poor feelings is many home and professional studios have placed the foam squares directly on the wall, thus diminishing their effectiveness. Placing the acoustic foam squares on an open backed grid approximately 50 mm (two inches) from the wall is more efficient.

Think Home Theater acoustics for editing, sound absorption and reflection for recording.

Toodles

F2 --- Just call me Dave.
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Be thankful for the bad things in life. They opened your eyes to the good things you weren't paying attention to before. email: thevoice@usa.com

[Ed Gambill]

Yea... and think in terms of the Theater X Curve. Not for the mix but for the room acoustics. The better you can hear it the better the mix will sound
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Esse quam videri "To be rather than to seem"
www.SaVoa.org No. 07000 Member AES

[Bill Campbell]

Before you work on the "room", start with a supercardiod mic, and
a channel strip with a good expander. That will get you 80% to where you need to be, maybe 100%, depending on the type of VO you do.
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www.asapaudio.com

[Monk]

Ed, I've always thought that the Theater X curve was an eq curve for projecting sound from behind a perforated screen.

There is a room dimension calculator that I think utilizes a simple formula for a good room.

http://www.componentacoustics.com/resources.html is one example, the calculator is the first link at the top of the page and is in the form of an excel spreadsheet.

A room should have enough cubic feet (over 1500?) to be even considered, else you'll end up with a boxy tone.
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Company, villainous company, hath been the spoil of me...

www.monksvoice.com